Monsoon 2026 - Issue 07
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No. 15 - The cover story

Three weeks on the pilgrim
paths of the Sahyadris

Words and photographs by Ila Menon
Published 28 June 2026 · 41 min read
Setting out before the mist lifts
Setting out from Bhaja, 05:40. The mist does the first hour with you.
The bus dropped us where the tar gave up, at a chai stall whose owner has watched forty years of walkers set out too fast. He poured, looked at our shoes, and said we'd learn.
The path climbs through betel groves the maps have stopped naming. Every hour or so it forgets it's a path and becomes a stream bed, a threshing floor, somebody's yard with a dog who has seen it all before.
“You do not finish a walk like this.
You just stop somewhere flat.”
By day nine the arithmetic of the walk had replaced the arithmetic of everything else. Kilometres to water. Hours to shade. Bananas remaining, divided by optimism.
The one road out
Day 12 - the one road out
Planning the next leg
Maps that agree on nothing
Next in Issue 07

The slow train to the coast →

From the train window
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